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Bandsaw Won’t Cut Straight – How To Fix It Once and For All

Bandsaw Fix won't cut straight blade drift

Believe it or not, it’s the nature of a bandsaw to drift either left or right of being perfectly parallel with the bandsaw fence.  It doesn’t have to do with the quality of a bandsaw. But it’s not necessarily the quality of the blade, either: if you swap the bandsaw blade with a new quality blade, the only thing that changes is the angle at which the blade drifts. Rest assured, it still won’t cut straight with the fence. Being a happy bandsaw owner (and user) has a lot to do with your approach to coping with the fact that a bandsaw simply will not cut straight, or, in the sage words of veteran woodworkers, “adjusting for drift.”

The trick is in adjusting the fence, not the blade.

powermatic bandsaw fence
The Powermatic 14" bandsaw uas 4 bolts on top of the fence. Use these for adjustment to make the saw cut straight

While adjusting for drift is a process you’ll have to do every time you change the blade, it’s a very quick and painless exercise as long as your fence has some adjustment to it. And it may not be obvious. Even the top performing 14″ bandsaw on the market, Powermatic’s 14 Bandsaw 1791216K, comes with a no-frills fence with 4 bolts on top rather than easy and obvious thumbscrews or knobs that say, “Adjust me here!”

The tried-and-true method to adjusting for drift goes like this:

  1. Take a board about 20″ long and mark a straight line along the length, parallel with (and about an inch from) the edge of the board.
  2. Turn on the bandsaw and begin to cut that board, following the line as perfect as you can (note: freehand, not with the fence.
  3. Stop the cut about halfway through the board
  4. There’s your angle. Using a pencil, trace the edge of the board on the table top
  5. Adjust your fence to match the line you drew on the bandsaw table. Now the fence is aligned to cut straight with that blade set up

Our demonstrator, Joe, came up with this auxiliary bandsaw fence that uses his factory bandsaw fence that didn’t have any adjustment to it.  Making the bandsaw cut nice and straight with this fence is a snap. The only tool required for adjusting is a screw driver.

Materials Required:

  • 1 x 4 hardwood suitable for new fence.  Length slightly longer than bandsaw table width.
  • Round Head Machine Screws –  2pcs –    ¼” x 20 x 1 ½”
  • Flat Washers –  2 pcs  –    ¼” flat washers
  • Dowel –  3/8”  approximately 4” long

Making the Fence:

  • Cut 1 X 4 material slightly longer than bandsaw table width.
  • With router cut a shallow channel across wooden fence approximately aligned with the bandsaw blade.  Use ½” core box bit
  • Use 7/8” forstner bit to countersink screws in face of wooden fence
  • Drill wooden fence with 9/32 bit for screws
  • Mark holes on factory fence
  • Drill and tap factory fence to accept 1/4 x 20 machine screws  – drill with 7/32” bit and tap with ¼ x 20 tap.
  • Assemble with ¼  X 20 X 1 ½” screws through fence with dowel in the groove.  Note:  dowel could be glued in place, but I chose to keep it loose in case I want to use a smaller or larger dowel in some situations.

auxiliary bandsaw resaw fence fixes drift



  • Michael Nestor

    Seems like a ‘teach yourself’ kind of thing. I struggled with a band that was made by Magnate. I did a lot of resawing with it. But when it broke I bought a timberwolf. I was able to to cut 50 foot of 8″ oak, (add some more foots for the offcuts), no problem. I finally realized my dream and all the work I had put into making my resawing sled. Untill today. The damn thing starts cutting to the left, not immediately, 4 feet into the board. But this is the price I pay for maxing out my saw. But you should see my lumber. You can’t buy this kind of lumber. I am thinking about doing a co-op with neighbors on that HF resaw machine. Now I get to go back out there and start troublehooting again. A new cut today, starts fine then the blade bows inward and puts too much stress and the blade is dragging through the cut.

  • blackbeered

    I came here wanting to know “when will the drift angle change”?

    When I change the blade, whether it be newer, finer, coarser, wider]? When I change the blade’s tension? When I change the blade’s tracking?

    I didn’t get any answers to those questions.

    • http://www.woodworkerssource.com Mark Stephens WWS

      The short answer is yes. It can change under any of those conditions. The change may be slight, or not.

      • blackbeered

        Thanks … I better keep a dumpster full of ‘calibration blocks’.

  • Eric chapp[e

    my bandsaw will not cut straight even freehand it takes extreme right hand turn and two different blades

    • http://www.woodworkerssource.com Mark Stephens WWS

      Need more info to give you better help, but you might have improper tension on the blade and/or guides, misaligned wheels, worn tires, etc, etc.