Dear wood working freinds, I have some quarter sawn Oak I just bought from wood workers source, I want to thin it down some more from 1/8 to 3/32.
the pieces are about four inches wide and 38 to 40 inches long and some pieces are eight inches wide and 40 inches long, I also have some East indian Rosewood that is the same thickness and same length and width. I want to know what type of hand held plane should I use to perform this task, what type of blade should I use. I have a hand held belt sander but I dont like the dust or do I have the funds for a dust collecting device.
I have had some bad experience with tear out on other woods, no matter how sharp I get the plane I have...............help with this would be appreciated,,,,,,,,,,Dennis in Yuma

Dennis, there is nothing like the swish from a sharp plane. It is therapy for me. Sometimes I will plane a board just for the fun of it. Take a cut, examine the shaving, maybe whiff the air and then adjust the depth of cut and do it again and again. My wife does not understand this strange behavior.

I aasume you will resaw the boards before planing. To smooth the boards I would use an 05 jack plane, 14". If you need to thin the boards before smoothing a scrub plane is in order. But before planing you will need a good solid, flat, stable working surface and a method to securly hold the boards. Without a good base tear out and frustration are sure to follow.

Tear out usually happens when the grain changes direction. When you come to problem area...STOP, reduce the cut, change direction and plane in a circular motion. You may need to change to a smoothing plane, scraper plane or a hand scraper. In any event extra caution and extra work will be necessary.

Planing boards by hand is a slow, tedious process. Unless it gives you great pleasure, I would locate a woodworking shop with a wide belt sander.

Hello Keith: I have already had the Oak Resawn by you company and milled to thickness, I bought that quarter sawn Oak about a month ago. The other wood East Indian Rosewood is already cut to rough thickness 1/8 I bought it three years ago from somewhere else it was on sale.I just need to get both woods down to 3/32, I have several planes one is a Jack plane I bought new in 1972, I hardley ever use it, it is about 8 inches in length. not sure if that is the right tool to use, I have two smaller block planes, Not sure which one to use, one has a adjustable part in the front the elevates up and down by a knob on the front of the plane, I can never get these darn things to adjust to what I want to do for me. When you mention planes I need to know more specifics, measurements so I need to know exactly what tool to use, then I can spend some more money and buy another plane. I have two belt sanders one is a Sears belt sander with a 2 1/2 wide belt and the other is a large stationary belt sander but only has a belt that extends out 7 or 8 inches but is 4 inches wide. the pieces I need sanded are almost 40 inches long. There are several cabnet shops here in this town unfortunately they wont sand or mill any wood from outside sources like my wood. not sure what the reason is, I think they are afraid of the wood being contaminated with metal stuff and could be hazardous to their employees. So I am stuck and will have to muddle through it some how. I just thought there could be a simpler solution to it, but I guess not. ..........Dennis in Yuma

I would still persue finding a wide belt sander. You only want to remove 1/32. I know shops resist doing outside work but your request is reasonable and easy. There are many retirement centers in Yuma and some will have a woodshop with a sander. It may not be a commercial wide belt but a Performax, JET or Delta 16-32 drum sander will do the job nicely. Check around. If you bring the boards to us, either Tucson or Phoenix, we will sand them-no charge. Just bring in a copy of this post.

If you plane the boards use the longest plane you have -the 8". Just for the record a plane this size would be a 04 smoothing plane. When trouble spots show up you will need to experiment. With the planes you have I would try the block plane with the lowest cutting angle or use a hand scraper. Unless you want another plane I think you can use what you have. To get a nice smooth cut the planes will need to be sharp and fine tuned.

What are you building?

Hello again Keith: I build guitars and some other musical instruments, in the Past I bought the wood already to bend and the backs and sides already for glue up. THe Oak is a experiment, I repaired a old guitar several years ago made of oak, the sides were rotted out, the tag inside said it was manufactured in the late 1800,s near San Francisco, Calif. So I know the earlier guitars were built out of a lot of different things. A year ago I met a man in Salome at a Fiddlers jam who owned a guitar he made from Oak, it played OK just didnt protrude the sound that would make it attractive. THe East Indian Rosewood I bought from a Luthiers suppliere who had a lot of mismatched Rosewood or it was seconds and thirds, unfortunately they dont do surfacing just sell the wood rough cut to thickness, they went out of business a while back. I could send it out to another luthiers supplier but they wont surface wood that wasnt purchased from them. So I am stuck with it. I dont want to purchase a lot exspensive power tools, because I would only occassionally use it. I used to glue the wood or lightly tack it on a thicker board like oak or hickory and run it through a power planer, but had a lot of problems with scorping at the ends, it was not my power tool , it belonged to a freind who owns it, doesnt want anyone to use his tools except himself
I have plans to build a large drum sander Where I make about twenty plywood disc about 2 to 2 1/2 in diameter, put them on a steel shaft a inch in diameter glued together. get two pillow blocks for a shaft bearing, make a box stand with a table to slide material through, the shaft has a pully on one side attached to a electric motor, that has a device made to raise or lower table in order to get results of a drum sander. The Home made drum is filed and shaped when motor turned on, then a slot is put in drum to hold a metal strap to hold drum sand paper of different grades. I have been told it works quite well and inexspensive to build except the motor, but not as pricey as a Jet sander or other type of manufaturer. A luthier guitar builder in Ohio sent plans to over the internet through the 13th fret .com a world wide guitar buildersforum
THose places you mentioned about havin abelt sander isnt available in this town except the cabnet makers shop and they wont do the work I would wanted to done, like I told you about having other materials that might or could cause harm. This is still a one horse town, over 500,000 peope in the winter and 122 ,000 year round but everything I have I had to mail order it or send out or do it myself.....................Dennis in Yuma

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